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Northern Ecuador 23rd February to 10th March 2003 Peter Nash
Getting there. We chose to fly with KLM. Departures from local airports were included so I flew from Humberside to Quito via Amsterdam with brief stopovers on the island of Bonaire in the Dutch Antilles and Guayaquil in southern Ecuador. We departed the UK at 1800 on the 23rd Feb and arrived in Quito on time at 0920 on the 24th. KLM seems to give more legroom than most airlines and provided a comfortable and efficient service. Note that Ecuador time is 5 hours behind GMT. Accommodation. We used the comfortable Tandayapa and Sacha Lodges and the Hostal de La Rabida in Quito situated at 227 y Sta Maria near the downtown area. Health and safety. Rural Ecuador seems generally safe and we didn’t encounter any problems. Quito is another matter. Our hotel was kept locked and was guarded 24 hours a day by a uniformed security officer wielding a pump action shotgun. We were advised not to venture out after dark. Many buildings and businesses in the city are similarly protected and for some reason the McDonalds restaurant near our hotel had 2 armed guards! Sacha Lodge is close to the border with Columbia and had a team of security guards posted around the grounds. Mosquitoes put in a fine performance at both of the Lodges. We all took anti malaria pills and used lots of repellent. Quito is 2850m above sea level, Yanacocha is 3400m and Papallacta Pass is 4100m so you may be affected by the altitude. Weather. Around Quito and Tandayapa we had mild to warm weather. At higher elevations such as Papallacta Pass and Yanacocha the temperature hovered around freezing for the early part of the day. Sacha and the rest of the lowlands had temperatures in the 30’s C and hotter at times especially in the afternoon sun. It rained just about every day, sometimes heavily. My ex army poncho gave good protection and could be worn over rucksacks, cameras and bins. References. The Birds of Ecuador a Field Guide, by Robert S Ridgely and Paul J Greenfield. ISBN 0-7136-6117-8 We also used the Lets Go Ecuador guide published by Macmillan.
Daily Log. 23 Feb. Depart UK 1800 24 Feb. Early morning stop over in Guayaquil, saw several Southern Caracaras and Peruvian Meadowlarks around the airport. Arrived Quito 0920 and transferred to Tandayapa Lodge for our 7 day stay. 25 Feb. Early start to Los Bancos for Moss backed and Ochre breasted Tanager etc, the Mindo Road, upper Tandayapa road and the Lodge trails. 26 Feb. Tandayapa Trails and vicinity. 27 Feb. Upper Tandayapa road at 2100-2350m, then Lodge trails. 28 Feb. Predawn start to Pedro Vicente Maldonado. Heavy overnight rain caused several landslides making a detour necessary and an extra hours travelling. 1 Mar. Yanacocha am then Tandayapa Lodge. 2 Mar. Four Rivers am then transfer to Quito for overnight stay. 3 Mar. Calacali am for White tailed ShrikeTyrant etc then transfer to Sacha Lodge for our 6 day stay. 4 Mar. River islands then around finca area. 5 Mar. Orchid Trail then the metal tower where we had a thunderstorm with high wind and heavy rain. Several trees blown down and branches etc crashing all around us meant a hasty retreat back to the Lodge. Strangely at ground level we couldn’t feel the wind at all because we were protected by the tall trees of the rainforest. 6 Mar. Providensia Trail in Yasuni National Park, Rio Shipaty and Lodge trails. 7 Mar. Canopy Tower then Lodge trails. 8 Mar. Sacha Lodge am then transfer back to Quito. Trip to Pasochoa. 9 Mar. Papallacta Pass and Guango Lodge. Overnight in Quito. 10 Mar. Depart Quito 1035. 11 Mar. Arrive UK Humberside airport 0750.
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