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Trinidad and Tobago Birding Trip Report 28th April to 5th May 2005 Peter and Natalie Nash
Introduction We booked a "Twin Island Special Tour" with Holiday in Tobago. This gave us a week on Tobago in the Blue Waters Inn, Speyside, and a week in the famous Asa Wright Nature Center on Trinidad. The price included international and local flights and all transfers. Also included is a flexible program of birding excursions on Tobago with Newton George, two full days and two half days. Newton is very personable and is an acknowledged expert on the birds of Trinidad and Tobago and we were fortunate to have him to ourselves for some of the trips. The service from Glyn Kirpalani of Holiday in Tobago was excellent, Glyn went out of his way to make sure we got the best out of our trip and offered many useful tips and suggestions. References "A Birdwatchers Guide to Trinidad and Tobago" by William L Murphy proved accurate and is a must have for any serious birder visiting the islands. The book contains site details and maps, bird lists and contact details for hotels, lodges and guides. I will assume that anyone using my report as part of their trip planning will have a copy. "A Guide to the Birds of Trinidad and Tobago" second edition, by Richard ffrench is not as good as it could be. The illustrations are poor and some birds are not illustrated at all. Some of the birds that are shown are the nominate race and not the ones found on T&T! The text somewhat redeems the situation with descriptions of local forms. Money The exchange rate for the TT dollar was around 12 to the UK£. Note that banks are open Monday to Thursday 0900 to 1500, and 0900 to 1300 Friday. Transport Holiday in Tobago offer economy seats on Excel Airways from London Gatwick to Crown Point airport on Tobago, and Tobago Express for inter island flights. Excel proved to be punctual and efficient and pretty good as economy flights go. We used Tobago Express for our inter island flights.
Airport transfers were included, drivers from Blue Waters Inn and Asa Wright met us at the airports on our arrival and ferried us back for our departure flights. Accommodation Tobago The Blue Waters Inn is in a perfect location. Located on the north east coast on Batteaux Bay near Speyside the Blue Waters is well situated for visits to the islands of Little Tobago and St Giles. The hotel offers air conditioned apartments and bungalows. The hotel grounds are a haven for birds, Rufous-vented Chachalacas are noisy neighbours and Turnstones will join you at the bar. During our stay up to six Hawksbill Turtles were feeding in Batteaux Bay only 20 or 30 m from the beach. A dirt road on the left just before the first entrance gate follows the contour high above the coast. The birds along here are very confiding and there are great views over to Little Tobago.
Trinidad "The Asa Wright Experience" is an accurate description. The Lodge is run in a very genteel way reminiscent of an earlier time. Most rooms are in bungalow style buildings in the grounds of the Lodge. The balcony has commanding views over the Arima valley. Bird feeders positioned just a few feet away from the balcony provide great photographic opportunities. Fruit, bread and cake are put out and attract Tanagers, Thrushes, Honeycreepers etc. Hummingbirds come to the feeders and also to flowering plants and bushes in the gardens. The resident guides give very informative walks around AWNC (Asa Wright Nature Center) and are always on hand on the balcony. Thanks to Denise, Cherry-Anne, Mukesh, Jason, Odin and Harold. Guides Tobago, Newton George. We emailed Newton and gave him an idea of the birds we wanted to see. Newton organised trips to the islands of Little Tobago and St Giles to fit in with our itinerary. Trinidad, Ramdass The AWNC offers a full range of trips to birding areas throughout the island. Experienced guides are provided. We were lucky to have Ramdass for the whole week. Trips may be booked a day in advance and packed meals are provided. Email AWNC for details and prices. Martyn Kenefick provided lots of details on finding hard to see birds. We met Martyn in the Blue Waters Inn as he guided a Naturetrek Tour.
Contacts Holiday in Tobago, www.holidayintobago.com Newton George, http://tka.co.uk/birds/trinidadandtobago/guides/newtongeorge.htm Blue Waters Inn, www.bluewatersinn.com Asa Wright Nature Centre, http://www.asawright.org/ Ramdass can be contacted via AWNC Martyn Kenefick, martynkenefick@hotmail.com
Daily account 21/04 Depart LGW 0930. Arrived at Crown Point airport Tobago at 1430 and met the driver provided by the Blue Waters Inn. Arrived at BWI 1700. Met Newton at the bar at 1900 to discuss birding possibilities. 22/04 An early start for a full day trip with Newton for his "Island Tour" Visited sites including Bloody Bay Recreational Area, Tobago Main Ridge Reserve, Arnos Vale, Buccoo Bay and Scarborough. 23/04 An early 0630 start for a visit to the Main Ridge Reserve and Gilpin Trace. 24/04 Afternoon visit to the seabird colony on Little Tobago. The island can also be visited using Franks Glass bottomed Boat Tours direct from the jetty at BWI, but note that less time is spent on the island as snorkelling and coral viewing are the main priority. 25/04 An 0700 start for Newtons "Wetlands Tour" Visited Bon Accord Water treatment Plant, Hilton Plantation, Pigeon Point and Grafton Bird Sanctuary. 26/04 Afternoon trip to St Giles Island, the sea conditions were quite choppy making photography difficult. There is no possibility of landing on St Giles. 27/04 Snorkeled with Hawksbill Turtles all morning. Made a second visit to Little Tobago for more bird viewing and snorkeling. 28/04 Transfer to Trinidad. 1200 flight to Piarco airport. Met by AWNC driver for the 40minute drive. Arranged a trip with Ramdass over the Northern Range to the coast at Blanchisseuse 29/04 A predawn start to the spectacular balcony at AWNC. After breakfast Blanchisseuse trip. 30/04 Early balcony viewing then after breakfast an introductory tour of the grounds with guide Cherry Anne. 01/05 Asa Wright trails all day. Arranged tours for the rest of our stay. 02/05 After an early visit to the Oilbirds at AWNC we met Ramdass for a trip to Aripo Livestock Station, Nariva Swamp and Waller Field. 03/05 Predawn 0300 start for a trip to Grande Riviere to see the Trinidad Piping Guans. Returned to AWNC in time for a 1630 start to Matura Beach for an amazing evening seeing Leatherback Turtle egg laying. The first turtles began clambering up the beach at 2030. Arrived back at AWNC 2230. 04/05 All day at AWNC. 05/05 Spent the early morning on the balcony and trails, then transferred to Piarco for 1200 flight to Tobago. Had time for a little birding around the airport before our homeward flight 1830. 06/05 Arrived LGW 0845.
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